the international

solidarity movement

August 2002
Life In East Jerusalem
by Mike McCurdy

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"It is the sound of a multifloor cement home being reduced to rubble.

When you wake up to this sound your heart sinks and seems to merge with a the fear that is rolling around in your stomach."

Chris and Carl Williams

- Urgent Appeal for Equipment Donations

 

I have spent the majority of the last several weeks living in East Jerusalem helping to train activists with the International Solidarity Movement to do non-violent direct action in occupied Palestine. Walking among the narrow streets of the Old City, sampling the exquisite local sweets, enjoying coffee and conversation it is hard to fathom that less than an hours walk away an entire population is living under lock down. This defenseless, impoverished, population is allowed to leave their homes only at the whim of their Israeli wardens. As tanks, armored personnel carriers, F-16’s and Apache’s, (made in the U.$.A., bought and paid for with our labor), terrorize this population I can drink a chocolate shake in an air-conditioned café and feel safe.

I’ve quickly become used to seeing Israeli’s, (police, soldiers, settlers) walking around East Jerusalem armed to the teeth harassing Palestinian men. Occasionally they’ll even stop me, shouting and cussing demanding my I.D. It seems they go easy on me though, (after all, I am white.) Occasionally, I choose to exercise this white privilege and intervene when Israeli’s are being particularly brutal in their harassment of the Palestinians. I may get pushed around a bit, sworn at and threatened but my protective racial bubble seems to keep me relatively safe and sometimes seems to be large enough to keep Palestinians close by a little safer too.

Today after a small shoot out close to Damascus Gate Police, Soldiers, and other heavily armed Israeli’s began grabbing, pushing, harassing and beating seemingly random Palestinian men. I tried to intervene with soldiers who were stomping on two young Palestinians handcuffed and laying on their stomachs and was quickly forced out of the area by several soldiers at least one of which was clearly out of his mind screaming, ranting and threatening me uncontrollably.
I entered a close by hostel for shelter but soon after the Israeli’s began entering all of the buildings in the area including the hostel I was sheltering in. Upon entering the hostel a police officer promptly threw me down and began cursing and threatening to bash my head in all the while having his hand wrapped around my throat. He was particularly disturbed by an address of a Palestinian Support Group he found in my pocket and a Palestinian Kafia (head scarf) in my bag. I was lucky though; his superior told him they didn’t have time for trash like me. They had too much “work” to do. A Japanese journalist in the hostel had his film confiscated.

Here in “Israel” this behavior barely raises eyebrows. Palestinians are used to collective punishment, it is expected. The general feeling at the hostel was that it is lucky I didn’t get my head smashed in and hey at least they let the journalist keep his camera. It is amazing what people can get used to. In fact that is one of the things that is most frightening to me, how quickly I have gotten used to it.