The Old City, situated in the heart of East Jerusalem,
was founded as early as 4000 BC. The first impression you get
when entering the city is its Middle Eastern appearance and architecture,
with its narrow crowded streets and unique bazaars.
The Old City is divided into four quarters, namely
the Moslem, the Christian, the Jewish and the Armenian Quarter.
The present walls surrounding the Old City were rebuilt by the
Turkish Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century, with
a circumference of approximately 4 km and an average height of
12 m ( UNECEF & Tamer, 1994).
The walls surrounding the Old City open to the outside through eleven gates, of which four are currently sealed (Figure 11.1).
1- Damascus Gate
The name of this gate was given because it was the
gate to the trade caravans heading to Damascus. It is also known
by several other names such as Triumphal Gate Way, The Gate
of Pillar, Stephen's Gate, and Bab El-'Amoud. The
last is used by the Palestinians of today as the gate used to
lead to a square with a Roman column located at its center.
The gate is the largest of all, with a width of about
four and a half meters. It was built by the Ottomans at a location
in the northern wall.
2- Herod's Gate
A very ancient gate located at the northern segment
of the wall. The gate is claimed to be built during the Fatemiyeh
period and later renovated by Sultan Salah Addin Al-Ayoubi. The
gate was renovated for the second time in 1537 during the Ottoman
period by the order of Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni. It is called
by several names including Bab El Sahera, Bab AlZouhour, Bab
Armieyeh, and Bab Jub.
3- Jaffa Gate
Is the second largest of all Gates after Damascus Gate and is located on the western segment of the wall. It is known in Arabic as Bab El Khalil as it leads to the road to Hebron (Al-Khalil). The gate was originally built by King Herod in 40 - 44 AD and was renovated in 1538 by the Ottoman Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni. In 1898, a new sub-Figure 11.1: Old City's Gates and Historic Sites.
entrance was opened next to Jaffa Gate by the order of Sultan Abed Al-Hamid II to be used for the reception of the German Emperor who visited Jerusalem in that year.
4- El - Magharbeh Gate
A very ancient gate located on the southern segment
of the wall. During the Ottoman period, the gate was kept closed
except for delivery of water from Silwan Spring. It is known
by many names including Bab Silwan, Bab Al-Duman, Bab Ed Dabagha,
Bab Al-Qumama, and Bab Al-Da'ieh. The gate was renovated
and enlarged by the Jordanians after it was severely damaged
during the 1948 war.
5- En - Nabi Daoud Gate
The gate is located on the southwestern segment of
the wall. The inscriptions on the gate walls indicates that this
wall was renovated in 1542 during the ruling of the Ottoman Sultan
Sulieman Al-Qanouni. The gate is large and high compared to other
gates. It is known by several other names including Zion Gate,
Bab Al-Mihrath, and Bab Harat Al-Yahoud.
6- Lions' Gate, or St. Stephen's Gate ( El-Asbat Gate )
It is located on the eastern segment of the wall, and nearest to the Aqsa mosque.
The gate was built by the Mamlouk Thaher Pepres
and later renovated by the Ottoman Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni.
It was called the Lions' Gate as two lion statues are fixed on
top of the gate, representing the symbol of Thaher Pepres. Other
names given to this gate include Bab Sitna Maryam, Bab El
'Usoud, Bab St. Etan, Bab Benyamin, and Bab El Ghor.
7- New Gate
The New Gate is located on the northwestern segment
of the wall and is the most recent of all gates. The New Gate,
also known as Abed Al-Hamid Gate, was opened in the year 1887
by the order of the Ottomans Sultan Abed Al-Hamid II. The gate
was closed after the 1948 Israeli-Arab war and was reopened in
1967 after Israel occupied the Old City of Jerusalem.
In addition to these seven gates, the Old City walls
currently contain four sealed historic gates, namely the Golden
Gate, El-Bab El-Wahed, Triangular Gate (El-Bab El-Muthallath),
and El-Bab El-Muzdawage (Al-Quds Newspaper, 1996).
The Old City of Jerusalem is one of the most holy sites for the three monotheistic religions. Currently it contains 31 churches, 17 mosques, and 7 synagogues (Appendix III). The following is a description of few of the important religious and historic sites in the Old City:
A magnificent building which was built by Abed El-Malek
Ibn Marwan in the year 692 AD, on the site from which the Prophet
Mohammed rose to heaven in the heavenly journey "Al
Esra' wa Al Mi'rag " (UNECEF & Tamer,
1994).
The building itself has an octagonal shape with a very distinguished
colorful tiling, gilded roof and golden dome (Dowley &
Hudson,
1992). The Dome of the Rock (Cover Photo) is the third holiest
site for Moslems after Al-Ka'ba in Mecca and Al-Masjed Al-Nabayi
in Al-Madina.
It was built by Al-Waleed Ibn Abed Al-Malik in the
8th century (709-715 AD) and was reconstructed by Al-Mansur the
Abbassid after its destruction in 746 AD by an earthquake. The
mosque is distinguished with its porch and seven arches (OMAR
& Vasko, no date). It contains a museum and a library containing
old copies of the Holy Qura'n.
It is part of wall surrounding the Aqsa Mosque area.
It is claimed that this wall is all that remained from the Jewish
second temple after its destruction. The wall is considered the
most holy site for Jews (OMAR & Vasko, no date).
This church stands over the traditional site of the Golgotha, the place were Jesus was crucified, buried, and later resurrected. Therefore it is considered the most important church for Christians worldwide. It was first built in 325 AD by Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine, during her son's reign. It was later destroyed and rebuilt several times. Today, the basilica houses six Christian denominations (OMAR & Vasko, no date).
The construction of this church was completed in
1924. It is located on the traditional site where Jesus prayed,
agonized before being betrayed and arrested. The church is distinguished
by its interior ceiling which consists of twelve domes each containing
beautiful mosaics (OMAR & Vasko, no date).
It was built in 1888 by Czar Alexander III in memory of his mother the Empress Maria Alexandrona. It has a Russian Moscow style of architecture and is distinguished by seven golden onion - shaped cupolas (OMAR & Vasko, no date).
Located south east Jerusalem at 730 - 750 m above
sea level. It was known that Al - Isawiyyah was built on the site
of Laisha village which means the lioness. It is considered as
an archaeological site which contains rock-cut water tanks, tombs,
caves and a cistern.
An ancient Palestinian village located east of Jerusalem
built at the top of Mount Olives. It is built at the site of
the ancient village of Beth Phage, where Jesus began his "Palm
Sunday" walk into Jerusalem. Most of the town is church
or Islamic Waqf property. It has an ancient mosque in which Omar
Ibn Al-Khatab, the Caliph, prayed when he visited Jerusalem.
It also has the holy shrine of Sulieman Al-Faraisi (Al-Dabbagh,
1991).
An Arab village which has the following hamlets:
Deir Macklak cave: contains ruins of a monastery, with mosaic floors, stone-carved water tanks and paintings.
Khirbet El-Mintar: contains square-stoned structures, carved water tanks, and a cistern.
Khirbet Jenjes: Located
west of Khirbet El - Mintar and contains ruined walls and
water tanks.
Khirbet Kumran: 38 km east of Jerusalem and contains the ruins of an old Roman castle. It is famous for the ancients manuscripts of the Bible which were recently discovered in one it its caves.
Khirbet Karm Abi Toq: Located west of Khirbet Kamran at 41 m above sea level. It may be the ruins of the old Cannanite village of Miedien.
Khirbet Karm 'Etrad: Located
east of Khirbet Karam Abu Toq and contains remains of an
ancient cave and a rectangular building structure (Al-Dabbagh,
1991).
It is located north west of Jerusalem. The village has an ancient mosque, a water spring and a hamlet known as Kirbet Ed-Weir in its eastern part.
Situated north east of Jerusalem at approximately
600 meters above sea level. It is an archaeological site which
contains ancient buildings, walls, caves, tombs, and columns made
of granite. The following hamlets are found in its vicinity:
Khirbet El-Khrabah:
In the northern part of the village, also known as Kirbet Attora.
It contains ruins and caves. To the east of this khirbet,
we find Fara spring, Khirbet Ein Fara, and Mt. El Karnin.
Kubur Bani Israel: Located
in the northern part of Hizma, and has remains of ancient buildings.
Khirbet Abi Muserah: West
of Hizma and has ruined walls.
Magharet El-jay: North
of Ein Fara and contains several caves.
A Palestinian village located 10 km south-east of
Jerusalem. It was built on the ruins of an ancient village known
during the Roman period as Machmas. The found shards indicate
inhabitation in the Iron Age, Roman and Byzantine periods. During
the Roman period, Mukhmas was known for its superior wheat and
was mentioned as a large village in Onomasticon of Eusebius. (Al-Dabbagh,
1991). The village is considered an archaeological
site which has ancient mosaic-paved floor tombs. The following
hamlets are found nearby:
Tal Maryam: Located
south west of Mukhmas, contains a cave and a rock-cut pool.
Khirbet El-Hayi: Situated
in the eastern part of Mukhmas, contains ruins of building basis,
caves and water tanks.
Khirbet Ed-Dawarah: located near
Khirbet El-Hay, contains caves and ruined walls.
A Palestinian village 8 km. north of Jerusalem which
received thousands of Palestinian refugees after the 1948 Arab/Israeli
war. Qalandia is a historical and archaeological site containing
remains of ancient building structures, paved floor, a pool, rock-carved
tombs, and a Byzantine bathhouse. A Roman villa has recently
been excavated near the village.
A Palestinian village northwest of Jerusalem located
on the site of a great Cannanite city, Gibeon, where Joshua made
the sun stand still. Gibeon which was first mentioned in the
story of Joshua and Hivites (Joshua .9). "Excavations on
the site discovered remains of buildings, a winery, rock-cut pool
25 m deep with spiral staircase, tombs and pottery from the Middle
Bronze Age I, Late Bronze Age and a massive city wall from the
Iron Age I, in addition to a Crusader church (IMD &
Carta
1993). There is also a large spring and five other deep-well
springs.
A Palestinian village located 8 km north of Jerusalem.
It has remains of foundations of ancient buildings, wine presses
and Arab style buildings from the Middle Ages (IMD &
Carta
1993). Beir Nabala has several water springs and a deep well,
which support the village's prosperous agriculture (Al-Dabbagh,
1991).
The village is located northwest of Jerusalem and
has a large spring. Four hamlets are in its vicinity, namely
Khirbet Al-Masaqa, Khirbet Al-Jabei'ah, Khirbet Rumaneh, Khirbet
El-Khami. In these hamlets there are remains of ancient building
foundations, ruined walls, rock-carved water cisterns, stone-carved
gate, mosaic floors, and an ancient presshouse (Al-Dabbagh,
1991).
Located northeast of Jerusalem at an average altitude
of 670 meters above sea level. It is built on top of the Cannanite
village of Anathoth, after the Cannanite God of War. It is also
the traditional birthplace for Prophet Jeremiah. 'Anata has
several archaeological sites containing remains of an ancient
building structures with mosaic floors and pieces of columns.
The following hamlets are found nearby :
Khirbet Ka'kol: In
the western parts of 'Anata, contains ruins of walls, rock-cut
water cisterns and ancient tombs.
Khirbet Deir As-Sad: Located
in the eastern parts of Anata.
Khirbet Almeet: Located northeast
'Anata, at an elevation of 638 m above sea level. It is located
on top of the ancient Cannanite village of Ailamon and contains
ruins of walls and rock-carved water tanks (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).
Ein El-Fawwar: In northeastern part of 'Anata, contains remains of a pool, mosaics floor of an ancient church, water canal, and caves.
Located approximately 5 km north of Jerusalem, this city has been built on top of the Cannanite city of Dersophath (Al-Dabbagh, 1991). The following hamlets are found nearby:
Khirbet Al-Sawma'a: In
the northern part of Shua'fat, contains a stone built barn, remains
of a rectangular building and stone-made tools.
Khirbet Er-Ras: In
the western part of Shua'fat, located at an elevation of 817m
above sea level.
Khirbet El-Masane': Southwest
of Shua'fat, there remains a church partially carved in rocks,
a cistern, and a rock-carved pool and tombs.
Tal El - Foul:
In the northern part of Shua'fat, has a partially excavated ancient
city and a castle. It is located on top of the ancient Cannanite
village of Gibeh.
Khirbet El-Adaseh:
To the north of Tal El-Foul, contains ruins of
walls and rock-carved water tanks.
Located approximately 8 km north of Jerusalem and
has 5 small springs in the western parts of the town. Beit Hanina
contains four hamlets, namely Khirbet El-Byar, Khirbet Esh-Showmara,
Khirbet Tlelia, and Kirbet Al-Hazoor. These have ruins
of a military camp, rock-carved water tanks and pools, ancient
tombs, and a Roman road.
Located approximately 13 km north of Jerusalem and
may have been built near the ancient Cannanite village of Ataroth.
(Al-Dabbagh, 1991). The village has the following hamlets:
Khirbet Attara:
West of Kafr 'Aqab, has remains of ancient walls, tombs and a
presshouse with mosaic floor. It is suspected that the Cannanite
village of Ataroth was built at this location.
Khirbet Kufr Tas: South of Kafr 'Aqab and has remains of ancient building structures.
A Palestinian village located a few hundred meters
south of the Old City. From the fourth and until the seventh
century, monks and worshipers considered this village a place
for meditation and spiritual exercises. Rock-carved tombs and
other ancient structures are found in Silwan. It is also famous
for its five springs, collectively known as Ein Silwan. These
springs are:
1. Um Ad-Daraj Spring: 300
m away from the eastern corner wall of the Aqsa Mosque. In ancient
times, this spring was the sole supplier of water to Jerusalem.
The spring is inside a cave 8 meters in depth. Visitors are
required to descend 17 steps before reaching this natural cave.
2. Silwan Pool: Located
a few meters away from Um Ad-Daraj. It was mentioned in the Book
of John (9:7-11) during the time of Jesus and currently is used
to irrigate small orchard areas.
3. Attihtaneyyah Pool: To
the southeast of Silwan Pool, also know as the Red Pool.
4. Jacob's Well:
Collects the water from Um Ad-Daraj, and in wet years, the water
floods from the well and overflows to the neighboring fields.
It was renovated by Sultan Salah Eddin Al-Ayyoubi.
5. El - Lawza Spring: Collects water flooding from Jacob's Well.
Located south of Jerusalem, and have several archeological
sites and ruins. Um Tuba is built on the location where the Roman
village of Metopa used to exist. There are several hamlets, including
Khirbet Sabha, Khirbet Um Lison, Khirbet Esh - Sheikh Sa'ad,
Khirbet Deir El-A'moud, Jub Er - Roum, Khirbet El - Harthan, and
Sheikh Ahmad Es-Sahouri. These contain ancient water
tanks, tombs with carved stones, caves, columns, and the ruins
of building structures and walls.
Located east of Jerusalem on the site where the village
of 'Beta Budison' existed at the Roman period. It has the 7
hamlets of Khirbet Er Raghabini, Khirbet Abu Suwaneh, Khirbet
El - Kharayeb, Khirbet Ez - Za'rora, Khirbet Abi Sa'd, Khirbet
Abi Hwailan, and Khirbet Um El Jimal. These hamlets
contain quarter-shaped building foundations, rock-carved water
cisterns, ruins of buildings, and caves.
Located on the eastern part of the Mount of Olives
and around 2 Km east of Jerusalem. It was known in the middle
ages as Bethania St. Lazar as Lazarus, who was raised from death
by Jesus, was buried in this village. Bethany has several monasteries
and mosques and is considered an archaeological site containing
ruins of a tower, tombs with mosaic floors, and ancient building
structures. To the east of El - Eizariyeh, there is Khirbet
Al-Lemrasres which contains a tower, ancient remains of a
church and rock-cut water cisterns.
Located northeast of Jerusalem at an elevation of
approximately 665 m above sea level. It was known at the time
of the Cannanites as Jabaa, which means the hill "At-Tal".
It is considered as archaeological site, containing remains of
an ancient village, rock-cut water cisterns, and ancient building
structures of a tower.
A Palestinian village located approximately 7 km
north of Jerusalem, off the Jerusalem-Ramallah road. During the
Roman period, this town was known as Al-Ramah, and later known
as Aram. It has remains of ancient buildings structures, cisterns,
walls, and quarries (IMD & Carta 1993;
Al-Dabbagh, 1991).
It has the hamlets of Khirbet Erha, Khirbet Addasa, Khirbet
Deir Sallam, and Khirbet Ras Et-Taweel. These contain
several archeological sites and remains such as cisterns, building
foundations, walls, and rock-cut wine presses.
Located northwest of Jerusalem on the top of a mountain 885 m above sea level. It is believed that the Cannanite village of Mispha used to exist at this site. It is also the traditional site where Prophet Samuel was buried. The Crusaders built a church at this village which later became the famous Nabi Samuwail Mosque (Photo 11.1). The village contains several archaeological sites including rock-cut cistern, building structures, and tombs.
Located approximately 10 km northwest of Jerusalem at 800 m above sea level. It is believed that the Cannanite village of Yerfe'el existed at this site. Rafat is considered an archaeological site containing rock-cut tombs and remains of ancient building structures. Currently a large area of the village is owned by the Latin Patriarchate, where they have built a monastery there.
Located northwest of Jerusalem at approximately
760m above sea level. The village has 4 hamlets and contain several
archeological remains of ancient building structures, walls, cisterns,
caves, a tower, a tomb, and a pool.
Located northwest of Jerusalem, and was known in the middle ages as Bethsurit. It has the following hamlets:
Khirbet El-Hosh: South
of Beit Surik, contains ancient building structures.
Khirbet El-Bawabah:
West of Beit Surik, contains ruins of ancient buildings, a well,
and old roads.
Khirbet El-Jabal: Southeast
of Beit Surik.
Located northwest of Jerusalem, there is an ancient
mosque which was later renovated in 1934. The only hamlet found
in Biddu is Khirbet El- Nijim, which is located
in the north eastern part of the village and contains a rock-carved
water cistern.
Located northwest of Jerusalem at an elevation of
770 m above sea level. It is believed that the ancient village
of Emmaus existed at this site. Emmaus is the village at which
Jesus appeared for two of his disciples after his resurrection
(Like 34:23-31). The village has a mosque and three monasteries.
The largest of the monasteries belongs to the Franciscan Brothers
where a church is built on top of the traditional houses of the
two disciples. The monastery was built in the seventh century
and renovated later in 1901.
Qubeiba has several archeological sites including
the remains of a Crusader church. The hamlets of Khirbet
El-Kabbosh, Khirbet Kharabtani, Khirbet Al-Judeideh are
located in the areas around the village and contain ruins of walls,
building structures, remains of an olive oil press, and a tunnel
which crosses a nearby valley (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).
Located northwest of Jerusalem where there is a
large spring. Another spring of Ein Namous is located around
1.5 km away from the village. The following hamlets are found
in the village's vicinity:
Khirbet Beit Esh-Shabab: Northeast
of the village, contains foundations of ancient buildings and
remains of a rock-cut press house.
Khirbet Baten El-'Arsh: Southwest
of Qatanna, contains a cave.
Khirbet Rafidia: South
of the village, contains building foundations, a tower, cistern,
a presshouse, and several caves.
Khirbet Abi Lahm: North
of Qatanna, contains ancient ruins.
Khirbet El - Kaferah:
Northeast of Qatanna, at an elevation of 774 m above sea level.
Khirbet E-Kaferah was recently discovered in the southeast of the village.