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Chapter Eleven
Historical And Archaeological Sites


The old city

The Old City, situated in the heart of East Jerusalem, was founded as early as 4000 BC. The first impression you get when entering the city is its Middle Eastern appearance and architecture, with its narrow crowded streets and unique bazaars.

The Old City is divided into four quarters, namely the Moslem, the Christian, the Jewish and the Armenian Quarter. The present walls surrounding the Old City were rebuilt by the Turkish Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century, with a circumference of approximately 4 km and an average height of 12 m ( UNECEF & Tamer, 1994).

The walls surrounding the Old City open to the outside through eleven gates, of which four are currently sealed (Figure 11.1).

 

 

Old City Open Gates

1- Damascus Gate

The name of this gate was given because it was the gate to the trade caravans heading to Damascus. It is also known by several other names such as Triumphal Gate Way, The Gate of Pillar, Stephen's Gate, and Bab El-'Amoud. The last is used by the Palestinians of today as the gate used to lead to a square with a Roman column located at its center.

The gate is the largest of all, with a width of about four and a half meters. It was built by the Ottomans at a location in the northern wall.

2- Herod's Gate

A very ancient gate located at the northern segment of the wall. The gate is claimed to be built during the Fatemiyeh period and later renovated by Sultan Salah Addin Al-Ayoubi. The gate was renovated for the second time in 1537 during the Ottoman period by the order of Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni. It is called by several names including Bab El Sahera, Bab AlZouhour, Bab Armieyeh, and Bab Jub.

3- Jaffa Gate

Is the second largest of all Gates after Damascus Gate and is located on the western segment of the wall. It is known in Arabic as Bab El Khalil as it leads to the road to Hebron (Al-Khalil). The gate was originally built by King Herod in 40 - 44 AD and was renovated in 1538 by the Ottoman Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni. In 1898, a new sub-Figure 11.1: Old City's Gates and Historic Sites.

entrance was opened next to Jaffa Gate by the order of Sultan Abed Al-Hamid II to be used for the reception of the German Emperor who visited Jerusalem in that year.

 

4- El - Magharbeh Gate

A very ancient gate located on the southern segment of the wall. During the Ottoman period, the gate was kept closed except for delivery of water from Silwan Spring. It is known by many names including Bab Silwan, Bab Al-Duman, Bab Ed Dabagha, Bab Al-Qumama, and Bab Al-Da'ieh. The gate was renovated and enlarged by the Jordanians after it was severely damaged during the 1948 war.

5- En - Nabi Daoud Gate

The gate is located on the southwestern segment of the wall. The inscriptions on the gate walls indicates that this wall was renovated in 1542 during the ruling of the Ottoman Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni. The gate is large and high compared to other gates. It is known by several other names including Zion Gate, Bab Al-Mihrath, and Bab Harat Al-Yahoud.

6- Lions' Gate, or St. Stephen's Gate ( El-Asbat Gate )

It is located on the eastern segment of the wall, and nearest to the Aqsa mosque.

The gate was built by the Mamlouk Thaher Pepres and later renovated by the Ottoman Sultan Sulieman Al-Qanouni. It was called the Lions' Gate as two lion statues are fixed on top of the gate, representing the symbol of Thaher Pepres. Other names given to this gate include Bab Sitna Maryam, Bab El 'Usoud, Bab St. Etan, Bab Benyamin, and Bab El Ghor.

7- New Gate

The New Gate is located on the northwestern segment of the wall and is the most recent of all gates. The New Gate, also known as Abed Al-Hamid Gate, was opened in the year 1887 by the order of the Ottomans Sultan Abed Al-Hamid II. The gate was closed after the 1948 Israeli-Arab war and was reopened in 1967 after Israel occupied the Old City of Jerusalem.

In addition to these seven gates, the Old City walls currently contain four sealed historic gates, namely the Golden Gate, El-Bab El-Wahed, Triangular Gate (El-Bab El-Muthallath), and El-Bab El-Muzdawage (Al-Quds Newspaper, 1996).


The Historical Buildings of the Old City

The Old City of Jerusalem is one of the most holy sites for the three monotheistic religions. Currently it contains 31 churches, 17 mosques, and 7 synagogues (Appendix III). The following is a description of few of the important religious and historic sites in the Old City:

Dome of the Rock

A magnificent building which was built by Abed El-Malek Ibn Marwan in the year 692 AD, on the site from which the Prophet Mohammed rose to heaven in the heavenly journey "Al Esra' wa Al Mi'rag " (UNECEF & Tamer, 1994). The building itself has an octagonal shape with a very distinguished colorful tiling, gilded roof and golden dome (Dowley & Hudson, 1992). The Dome of the Rock (Cover Photo) is the third holiest site for Moslems after Al-Ka'ba in Mecca and Al-Masjed Al-Nabayi in Al-Madina.

Aqsa Mosque

It was built by Al-Waleed Ibn Abed Al-Malik in the 8th century (709-715 AD) and was reconstructed by Al-Mansur the Abbassid after its destruction in 746 AD by an earthquake. The mosque is distinguished with its porch and seven arches (OMAR & Vasko, no date). It contains a museum and a library containing old copies of the Holy Qura'n.

The Western "Wailing Wall"

It is part of wall surrounding the Aqsa Mosque area. It is claimed that this wall is all that remained from the Jewish second temple after its destruction. The wall is considered the most holy site for Jews (OMAR & Vasko, no date).

The Church of the Holy Sepulcher

This church stands over the traditional site of the Golgotha, the place were Jesus was crucified, buried, and later resurrected. Therefore it is considered the most important church for Christians worldwide. It was first built in 325 AD by Helena, mother of Emperor Constantine, during her son's reign. It was later destroyed and rebuilt several times. Today, the basilica houses six Christian denominations (OMAR & Vasko, no date).


The Church of Gethsemane "The Church of All Nations"

The construction of this church was completed in 1924. It is located on the traditional site where Jesus prayed, agonized before being betrayed and arrested. The church is distinguished by its interior ceiling which consists of twelve domes each containing beautiful mosaics (OMAR & Vasko, no date).

The Russian Church of St. Mary Magdalen

It was built in 1888 by Czar Alexander III in memory of his mother the Empress Maria Alexandrona. It has a Russian Moscow style of architecture and is distinguished by seven golden onion - shaped cupolas (OMAR & Vasko, no date).

Historical Sites in the Jerusalem District

Al Isawiyyah

Located south east Jerusalem at 730 - 750 m above sea level. It was known that Al - Isawiyyah was built on the site of Laisha village which means the lioness. It is considered as an archaeological site which contains rock-cut water tanks, tombs, caves and a cistern.

Et - Tur

An ancient Palestinian village located east of Jerusalem built at the top of Mount Olives. It is built at the site of the ancient village of Beth Phage, where Jesus began his "Palm Sunday" walk into Jerusalem. Most of the town is church or Islamic Waqf property. It has an ancient mosque in which Omar Ibn Al-Khatab, the Caliph, prayed when he visited Jerusalem. It also has the holy shrine of Sulieman Al-Faraisi (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).

Arab Al - Sawahrah

An Arab village which has the following hamlets:

Deir Macklak cave: contains ruins of a monastery, with mosaic floors, stone-carved water tanks and paintings.

Khirbet El-Mintar: contains square-stoned structures, carved water tanks, and a cistern.

Khirbet Jenjes: Located west of Khirbet El - Mintar and contains ruined walls and water tanks.

Khirbet Kumran: 38 km east of Jerusalem and contains the ruins of an old Roman castle. It is famous for the ancients manuscripts of the Bible which were recently discovered in one it its caves.

Khirbet Karm Abi Toq: Located west of Khirbet Kamran at 41 m above sea level. It may be the ruins of the old Cannanite village of Miedien.

Khirbet Karm 'Etrad: Located east of Khirbet Karam Abu Toq and contains remains of an ancient cave and a rectangular building structure (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).

Beit Duqqu

It is located north west of Jerusalem. The village has an ancient mosque, a water spring and a hamlet known as Kirbet Ed-Weir in its eastern part.

 

Hizma

Situated north east of Jerusalem at approximately 600 meters above sea level. It is an archaeological site which contains ancient buildings, walls, caves, tombs, and columns made of granite. The following hamlets are found in its vicinity:

Khirbet El-Khrabah: In the northern part of the village, also known as Kirbet Attora. It contains ruins and caves. To the east of this khirbet, we find Fara spring, Khirbet Ein Fara, and Mt. El Karnin.

Kubur Bani Israel: Located in the northern part of Hizma, and has remains of ancient buildings.

Khirbet Abi Muserah: West of Hizma and has ruined walls.

Magharet El-jay: North of Ein Fara and contains several caves.

Mukhmas

A Palestinian village located 10 km south-east of Jerusalem. It was built on the ruins of an ancient village known during the Roman period as Machmas. The found shards indicate inhabitation in the Iron Age, Roman and Byzantine periods. During the Roman period, Mukhmas was known for its superior wheat and was mentioned as a large village in Onomasticon of Eusebius. (Al-Dabbagh, 1991). The village is considered an archaeological site which has ancient mosaic-paved floor tombs. The following hamlets are found nearby:

Tal Maryam: Located south west of Mukhmas, contains a cave and a rock-cut pool.

Khirbet El-Hayi: Situated in the eastern part of Mukhmas, contains ruins of building basis, caves and water tanks.

Khirbet Ed-Dawarah: located near Khirbet El-Hay, contains caves and ruined walls.

Qalandia

A Palestinian village 8 km. north of Jerusalem which received thousands of Palestinian refugees after the 1948 Arab/Israeli war. Qalandia is a historical and archaeological site containing remains of ancient building structures, paved floor, a pool, rock-carved tombs, and a Byzantine bathhouse. A Roman villa has recently been excavated near the village.

El Jeib

A Palestinian village northwest of Jerusalem located on the site of a great Cannanite city, Gibeon, where Joshua made the sun stand still. Gibeon which was first mentioned in the story of Joshua and Hivites (Joshua .9). "Excavations on the site discovered remains of buildings, a winery, rock-cut pool 25 m deep with spiral staircase, tombs and pottery from the Middle Bronze Age I, Late Bronze Age and a massive city wall from the Iron Age I, in addition to a Crusader church (IMD & Carta 1993). There is also a large spring and five other deep-well springs.

Beir Nabala

A Palestinian village located 8 km north of Jerusalem. It has remains of foundations of ancient buildings, wine presses and Arab style buildings from the Middle Ages (IMD & Carta 1993). Beir Nabala has several water springs and a deep well, which support the village's prosperous agriculture (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).

Beit A'nan

The village is located northwest of Jerusalem and has a large spring. Four hamlets are in its vicinity, namely Khirbet Al-Masaqa, Khirbet Al-Jabei'ah, Khirbet Rumaneh, Khirbet El-Khami. In these hamlets there are remains of ancient building foundations, ruined walls, rock-carved water cisterns, stone-carved gate, mosaic floors, and an ancient presshouse (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).

'Anata

Located northeast of Jerusalem at an average altitude of 670 meters above sea level. It is built on top of the Cannanite village of Anathoth, after the Cannanite God of War. It is also the traditional birthplace for Prophet Jeremiah. 'Anata has several archaeological sites containing remains of an ancient building structures with mosaic floors and pieces of columns. The following hamlets are found nearby :

Khirbet Ka'kol: In the western parts of 'Anata, contains ruins of walls, rock-cut water cisterns and ancient tombs.

Khirbet Deir As-Sad: Located in the eastern parts of Anata.

Khirbet Almeet: Located northeast 'Anata, at an elevation of 638 m above sea level. It is located on top of the ancient Cannanite village of Ailamon and contains ruins of walls and rock-carved water tanks (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).

Ein El-Fawwar: In northeastern part of 'Anata, contains remains of a pool, mosaics floor of an ancient church, water canal, and caves.

Shua'fat

Located approximately 5 km north of Jerusalem, this city has been built on top of the Cannanite city of Dersophath (Al-Dabbagh, 1991). The following hamlets are found nearby:

 

Khirbet Al-Sawma'a: In the northern part of Shua'fat, contains a stone built barn, remains of a rectangular building and stone-made tools.

Khirbet Er-Ras: In the western part of Shua'fat, located at an elevation of 817m above sea level.

Khirbet El-Masane': Southwest of Shua'fat, there remains a church partially carved in rocks, a cistern, and a rock-carved pool and tombs.

Tal El - Foul: In the northern part of Shua'fat, has a partially excavated ancient city and a castle. It is located on top of the ancient Cannanite village of Gibeh.

Khirbet El-Adaseh: To the north of Tal El-Foul, contains ruins of walls and rock-carved water tanks.

Beit Hanina

Located approximately 8 km north of Jerusalem and has 5 small springs in the western parts of the town. Beit Hanina contains four hamlets, namely Khirbet El-Byar, Khirbet Esh-Showmara, Khirbet Tlelia, and Kirbet Al-Hazoor. These have ruins of a military camp, rock-carved water tanks and pools, ancient tombs, and a Roman road.

Kafr 'Aqab

Located approximately 13 km north of Jerusalem and may have been built near the ancient Cannanite village of Ataroth. (Al-Dabbagh, 1991). The village has the following hamlets:

Khirbet Attara: West of Kafr 'Aqab, has remains of ancient walls, tombs and a presshouse with mosaic floor. It is suspected that the Cannanite village of Ataroth was built at this location.

Khirbet Kufr Tas: South of Kafr 'Aqab and has remains of ancient building structures.


Silwan

A Palestinian village located a few hundred meters south of the Old City. From the fourth and until the seventh century, monks and worshipers considered this village a place for meditation and spiritual exercises. Rock-carved tombs and other ancient structures are found in Silwan. It is also famous for its five springs, collectively known as Ein Silwan. These springs are:

1. Um Ad-Daraj Spring: 300 m away from the eastern corner wall of the Aqsa Mosque. In ancient times, this spring was the sole supplier of water to Jerusalem. The spring is inside a cave 8 meters in depth. Visitors are required to descend 17 steps before reaching this natural cave.

2. Silwan Pool: Located a few meters away from Um Ad-Daraj. It was mentioned in the Book of John (9:7-11) during the time of Jesus and currently is used to irrigate small orchard areas.

3. Attihtaneyyah Pool: To the southeast of Silwan Pool, also know as the Red Pool.

4. Jacob's Well: Collects the water from Um Ad-Daraj, and in wet years, the water floods from the well and overflows to the neighboring fields. It was renovated by Sultan Salah Eddin Al-Ayyoubi.

5. El - Lawza Spring: Collects water flooding from Jacob's Well.

 

Sur Bahir and Um Tuba

Located south of Jerusalem, and have several archeological sites and ruins. Um Tuba is built on the location where the Roman village of Metopa used to exist. There are several hamlets, including Khirbet Sabha, Khirbet Um Lison, Khirbet Esh - Sheikh Sa'ad, Khirbet Deir El-A'moud, Jub Er - Roum, Khirbet El - Harthan, and Sheikh Ahmad Es-Sahouri. These contain ancient water tanks, tombs with carved stones, caves, columns, and the ruins of building structures and walls.

Abu Deis

Located east of Jerusalem on the site where the village of 'Beta Budison' existed at the Roman period. It has the 7 hamlets of Khirbet Er Raghabini, Khirbet Abu Suwaneh, Khirbet El - Kharayeb, Khirbet Ez - Za'rora, Khirbet Abi Sa'd, Khirbet Abi Hwailan, and Khirbet Um El Jimal. These hamlets contain quarter-shaped building foundations, rock-carved water cisterns, ruins of buildings, and caves.

Eizariya

Located on the eastern part of the Mount of Olives and around 2 Km east of Jerusalem. It was known in the middle ages as Bethania St. Lazar as Lazarus, who was raised from death by Jesus, was buried in this village. Bethany has several monasteries and mosques and is considered an archaeological site containing ruins of a tower, tombs with mosaic floors, and ancient building structures. To the east of El - Eizariyeh, there is Khirbet Al-Lemrasres which contains a tower, ancient remains of a church and rock-cut water cisterns.

Jaba'

Located northeast of Jerusalem at an elevation of approximately 665 m above sea level. It was known at the time of the Cannanites as Jabaa, which means the hill "At-Tal". It is considered as archaeological site, containing remains of an ancient village, rock-cut water cisterns, and ancient building structures of a tower.


Er-Ram

A Palestinian village located approximately 7 km north of Jerusalem, off the Jerusalem-Ramallah road. During the Roman period, this town was known as Al-Ramah, and later known as Aram. It has remains of ancient buildings structures, cisterns, walls, and quarries (IMD & Carta 1993; Al-Dabbagh, 1991). It has the hamlets of Khirbet Erha, Khirbet Addasa, Khirbet Deir Sallam, and Khirbet Ras Et-Taweel. These contain several archeological sites and remains such as cisterns, building foundations, walls, and rock-cut wine presses.

Nabi Samuwail (Samuel)

Located northwest of Jerusalem on the top of a mountain 885 m above sea level. It is believed that the Cannanite village of Mispha used to exist at this site. It is also the traditional site where Prophet Samuel was buried. The Crusaders built a church at this village which later became the famous Nabi Samuwail Mosque (Photo 11.1). The village contains several archaeological sites including rock-cut cistern, building structures, and tombs.

 

Photo 11.1: Nabi Samuwail (Samuel) Moseque, 1996.

 

Rafat

Located approximately 10 km northwest of Jerusalem at 800 m above sea level. It is believed that the Cannanite village of Yerfe'el existed at this site. Rafat is considered an archaeological site containing rock-cut tombs and remains of ancient building structures. Currently a large area of the village is owned by the Latin Patriarchate, where they have built a monastery there.

Beit Iksa

Located northwest of Jerusalem at approximately 760m above sea level. The village has 4 hamlets and contain several archeological remains of ancient building structures, walls, cisterns, caves, a tower, a tomb, and a pool.

Beit Surik

Located northwest of Jerusalem, and was known in the middle ages as Bethsurit. It has the following hamlets:

Khirbet El-Hosh: South of Beit Surik, contains ancient building structures.

Khirbet El-Bawabah: West of Beit Surik, contains ruins of ancient buildings, a well, and old roads.

Khirbet El-Jabal: Southeast of Beit Surik.

Biddu

Located northwest of Jerusalem, there is an ancient mosque which was later renovated in 1934. The only hamlet found in Biddu is Khirbet El- Nijim, which is located in the north eastern part of the village and contains a rock-carved water cistern.

Qubeiba

Located northwest of Jerusalem at an elevation of 770 m above sea level. It is believed that the ancient village of Emmaus existed at this site. Emmaus is the village at which Jesus appeared for two of his disciples after his resurrection (Like 34:23-31). The village has a mosque and three monasteries. The largest of the monasteries belongs to the Franciscan Brothers where a church is built on top of the traditional houses of the two disciples. The monastery was built in the seventh century and renovated later in 1901.

Qubeiba has several archeological sites including the remains of a Crusader church. The hamlets of Khirbet El-Kabbosh, Khirbet Kharabtani, Khirbet Al-Judeideh are located in the areas around the village and contain ruins of walls, building structures, remains of an olive oil press, and a tunnel which crosses a nearby valley (Al-Dabbagh, 1991).

Qatanna

Located northwest of Jerusalem where there is a large spring. Another spring of Ein Namous is located around 1.5 km away from the village. The following hamlets are found in the village's vicinity:

Khirbet Beit Esh-Shabab: Northeast of the village, contains foundations of ancient buildings and remains of a rock-cut press house.

Khirbet Baten El-'Arsh: Southwest of Qatanna, contains a cave.

Khirbet Rafidia: South of the village, contains building foundations, a tower, cistern, a presshouse, and several caves.

Khirbet Abi Lahm: North of Qatanna, contains ancient ruins.

Khirbet El - Kaferah: Northeast of Qatanna, at an elevation of 774 m above sea level.

Khirbet E-Kaferah was recently discovered in the southeast of the village.

 


Copyrighted © Applied Research Institute - Jerusalem (ARIJ), 1996

Chapter10 Table ofContents go to West bank Profile write ARIJ an e-mail Order References